Dismal Swamp Canal

Friday, November 6, 2009

Although gusty winds are predicted again today, we leave Portsmouth with the knowledge that we will be in the protected waters of the Dismal Swamp Canal for most of the day.  There are two ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) routes south from Virginia to North Carolina.  We went north to the Chesapeake using the Currituck Sound route (also known as the Virginia-North Carolina Cut).  We decide to return home using the Dismal Swamp route which also starts at the Elizabeth River in Virginia and ends just north of Elizabeth City, North Carolina in the Pasquotank River.

The Great Dismal Swamp stretches from southeastern Virginia to northeastern North Carolina.  Originally it covered about 3600 square miles, but has been partially drained to reclaim some of the valuable farmland and now covers only about 600 square miles.  Lake Drummond, 6 miles long and 3 miles wide, sits at the center of the great swamp (it was discovered in 1677 by William Drummond, NC's first governor) and provides most of the water for the canal.

Construction on the canal was started in 1793, delayed by the war of 1812 and finally completed in 1814.  There is a lock at each end, the northern at Deep Creek, VA and the other at South Mills, NC.  Each lock raises or lowers vessels about 8 feet.

We pull into the lock and tie up on the starboard side.  The port side filled up as well.

Finally, all were in, the lock gates closed behind us and the lock began to fill with water.

The canal itself is simply beautiful - it was hard to stop taking pictures of the view down the canal.

We could cruise at only 5-6 knots as the water was shallow (6-7 feet) and a boat our size could pick logs up off the bottom and pull them into the props.

We arrive at the South Mills lock and bridge and await the 3:30 bridge opening.  Both the bridge and lock must open in sync and are operated by the same tender.

Below South Mills, the ICW follows the wild, almost swampy northern headwaters of the Pasquotank River for about 18 miles to Elizabeth City.  As the sun starts to set, we pull behind Goat Island to anchor for the night.