Saturday, July 31, 2010

Northern Abacos

Time to start mosying back towards civilization.  We really love the northern Abacos - many undeveloped and uninhabited cays to explore.  So when it's time to head back, we take some time to visit some of our favorite beaches and anchorages.

First is Baker's Bay at the north end of Great Guana Cay.  The development there has begun in earnest, a huge marina has been dredged out of the center of the cay and a golf course appears to be about complete.  We stay only one night and go out to the reef just offshore for some snorkeling, which fortunately is still great.

The weather is still excellent, so we go ahead and put the Whale Cay Passage behind us.  This requires an open ocean passage which can be gnarly if the wind is kicking up.  Several boats are lost here about every year.  For us it was smooth as silk - I attribute it to good clean living.

We pass on by Green Turtle Cay since we stopped there earlier already and made for Manjack Cay (pronounced Munjack and shown on some charts as Nunjack).  This is one of our favorites and here's why:  (click on any picture to enlarge)



Island Passage rides gently on her anchor, alone in the small cove.



We visit the reefs just around the corner... huge coral heads are everywhere.  The coral is healthy with lots of fish.



Another view of the harbour.  It's protected only from the south and east, the north faces open ocean.  Fortunately there is little surge into the harbour.




Another view of the beach from the dinghy.



We spend two nights at Manjack.  Unfortunately on the way into the harbour, I went to put the starboard engine into neutral, heard a snap and the shifter handle just dropped, obviously no longer connected to the cable.  Unable to take the engine out of gear all I could do was turn it off.

Checking underneath the dash, I found the plastic pivot broken into pieces and the brass swivel tube bent and broken.  O.K., no hardware stores around.  Rummaging through my spare parts box I was able to fashion another pivot from a strip of metal by cutting it and bending it to fit the end of the cable and the shifter.  The swivel needed reinforcement where it was broken and maaybeee it will hold for awhile (fingers crossed).  With some tweaking and adjusting I could put the engine into both forward and reverse (and, just as importantly, into neutral).  This will making docking ever so much easier.

As a good omen, as we were leaving Manjack, a dolphin appeared to offer support.



We stopped at Spanish Cay just long enough to take on some water and ice for the cooler and proceeded north to Allans-Pensacola Cay, another of our favorites.

Sunset at Allans-Pensacola...








It was a beautiful, clear night in the cove with very light breezes. 

Wednesday morning dawned bright and clear with no breeze at all.  We begin our crossing of the Little Bahama Bank with lake-smooth water.  A view northward towards Moraine Cay...



We take our time and enjoy watching the bottom go by at about 8 knots.  We anchor for the night at Great Sale Cay, another uninhabited cay along the route of the Little Bahama Bank.

Thursday morning offers a light breeze from the west - southwest and, off i  the distance we can see a line of thunder showers.  We pass safely just south of the line and. passing Mangrove Cay, our next waypoint, we turn south towards Dover Sound and the Grand Lucayan Waterway that cuts through Grand Bahama Island.

We have spent 12 straight days anchored out and are ready for the marina at Freeport.


Friday, July 23, 2010

Hopetown

On Wednesday, we hauled anchor and moved up to Hopetown where we picked up a mooring in the harbour.

Hopetown is clearly one of the most picturesque settlements in the Bahamas.  It's candy-striped lighthouse wa built by the British Imperial Lighthouse Service in 1863, and still uses a small kerosene fueled mantle and a huge rotating glass fresnel lens to send a beam of light that can be seen for up to 20 miles.  The town was settled by Loyalists in 1785 and has many charming old houses, some of them beautifully restored.

There are two grocery stores in town, the Harbour View Grocery and Vernon's Grocery (his slogan is "Let'm eat key lime pie").  He also has a sign on the door that says: "If you're looking for Walmart, it's 200 miles in that direction".

A few of the harbour views:

The lighthouse, of course.



For inside pictures and some views from the balcony, see the post of July 18.

A small freighter unloads in front of the Hope Town Harbour Lodge, another excellent restaurant.


Some of the harbour-front houses..


In the center of this picture is Captain Jack's, a waterfront restaurant.


A closer view of Captain Jack's (excellent blackened fish sandwich)...



Some of the street scenes....











Where we leave Mr Dinghy when we visit...


As sunset approached, clouds  began to move in - the edge of Tropical Storm Bonnie...


We had some wind and a light rain shower from the storm, by this morning, the skies were relatively clear once again.


Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Tahiti Beach

We have spent the last two days anchored just north of Tahiti Beach, across from Lubbers Quarters.  Years ago, we spent two vacations in a rental house on Lubbers Quarters and have many great memories of this area with our friends.

The beach is right at a cut between Elbow Cay and Talloo Cay and features many coconut trees (hence the name Tahiti Beach).  Click on any picture to enlarge.





A view more to the left...  (I found a good pee spot).



A view down the beach towards the cut....



A wind surfer skims by...




Across the channel is Lubber's Quarters, a small cay with a good restaurant: Cracker P's.  From the dock.....



The bar and restaurant is behind us....


inside....




The admiral....







They have the best Smoked Fish Dip anywhere.  The grilled conch was also excellent!


We played some darts, met some new friends, then took Mr Dinghy back to the mothership.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Abacos with Aaron, Kelly and family

July 2 - July 14, 2010

After a couple of days rest down at Little Harbour (and a few of Pete's "Blasters") we move up to Marsh Harbour to prepare for the arrival of our son, Aaron and his family: wife Kelly, son Noah, age 9 and daughter Kennedy, age 6.

They are flying in on July 5th and we are anxious to see family again.  The next 10 days pretty much goes by in a blur of activity - back down to Little Harbour, Lynyard Cay, Hope Town, Guana Cay, Green Turtle, Manjack Cay, then back to Marsh Harbour for their flight home.  Here are a few of the pics:

Noah and Kennedy swimming off the back of the boat at Little Harbour.


We did some snorkeling at the little reef at the entrance to Little Harbour.  They loved it.  Both kids swim like a fish and are excited by seeing the colorful fish and corals.

Aaron, Kelly, Noah and Kennedy taking the dinghy over to Pete's Pub.


And on the beach at the Pub.


Noah and Kennedy in the "Crows Nest".


Aaron showing his skill at the ring hook game...  A good view of the inside of the pub.


Noah and Kennedy on the beach, Island Passage in the background.


Probably the largest hermit crab I've ever seen...


Grandma and Grandpa on the beach.


Exploring the cave on the other side of the harbour...





We anchor just off a beach at Lanyard Cay for the night and dinghy over to Sandy Cay to snorkel the reef there.

At Hopetown, the family visits the lighthouse.




It's the last remaining kerosene vapor lighthouse in operation.



Inside the fresnel lens..



Standing on the outer deck.



The view from the top...



Heading out of Hopetown harbour.


The captain and the kid.


Making our pirate faces...



At green Turtle Cay, Aaron and Kelly went on a dive trip with Brendals Dive and we rented a golf cart to tour the Cay and New Plymouth.




A view of town...



At Guana Cay, we celebrated Katy's birthday at Orchid Bay marina.





More later...