Beaufort, NC

Today we awaken to another fair day, although we are hearing the warnings about the remnants of Tropical Storm Ida reaching the mid-Atlantic states by Wednesday.  So reluctantly we collect our ropes, leave the snug harbor of Oriental and head across the Neuse River to Adams Creek.

Once inside Adams Creek we are passed by "Justice" a beautiful wooden ship that apparently has been painstakingly restored.  I would love to know the history of that craft.

We meet a tug with barge.

Finally, we take the Gallants Channel to enter the Beaufort Harbor from the back side.  hile waiting for the Beaufort swing bridge to open, we are passed by this small, innovative fishing craft.

As we tie up at Beaufort, we feel as if we are almost home now.  One more trip to the Beaufort Grocery for some bourbon pecan pie and we can call it a season.

The captain on the boardwalk in front of the Dock House.

So far on this trip we have covered 926 miles and have had a great time.  We hope you have enjoyed it as much as we enjoyed sharing it.

Oriental, NC

Sunday, November 8, 2009

We awaken on Campbell Creek to another sunny and warm day.  Since we have only about 25 miles to go to reach Oriental, our next destination, we sleep a little late.  When we get up we find several small fishing boats in the creek around us, all casting about like crazy.  It must be a popular spot.

We pull anchor and head down the Goose Creek Cut towards Hobucken.  This short (about 8 mile) stretch of the ICW is one of my favorite sections due to the unspoiled beauty of the area.  All too soon, we reach the end of Goose Creek and head out into the Bay River.  This then takes us briefly out into the Pamlico Sound before we turn west and enter the Neuse River towards Oriental.

Oriental is also a favorite destination and we tie up at the Oriental Harbor Marina and head for the Inland Waterway Treasure Company.  As expected, they were having their end of the season sale on tee shirts - two for the price of one.

We have lunch at M & M's Cafe and walk the small town.

Pasquotank River to Goose Creek Cut

Saturday, November 7, 2009

We awaken at our anchorage to the sounds of ....   nothing whatsoever.  We are deep in the wilds of the Dismal Swamp.  Here is a shot of the anchorage behind Goat Island.  Most of the trees have dropped their leaves, but the cyprus still show some color.

At least the sun is still shining.  The Anchor Wench weighs anchor.

We cruise down to Elizabeth City where the swing bridge opens promply.  We really wish we could stop for a visit but have just run out of time.

Below Elizabeth City, the Pasquotank River widens and we pass a large Coast Guard station and a blimp factory.  This immense structure was built during World War II for the manufacture of dirigibles. 

We spot two dirigibles parked outside, maybe for testing.  The one looks like the "Fat Alberts" used by the Coast Guard in the Florida Keys to carry radar to catch drug running boats.


 

 
Since it is a nice day with fair breezes, we continue down the Pasquotank River, across the Albemarle Sound, down the Alligator River, through the Alligator-Pungo Canal to Belhaven.  Still onward, we continue down the Pungo River, cross the Pamlico River and finally drop anchor in Campbell Creek, just off the Goose Creek Cut.  Once again, we have the creek to ourselves for the night.
 
It's been a long day and we have covered 96 miles.  We are particularly happy to be across the Albemarle Sound as it has a reputation for being the most difficult passage on the entire ICW when the winds blow across it.

Dismal Swamp Canal

Friday, November 6, 2009

Although gusty winds are predicted again today, we leave Portsmouth with the knowledge that we will be in the protected waters of the Dismal Swamp Canal for most of the day.  There are two ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) routes south from Virginia to North Carolina.  We went north to the Chesapeake using the Currituck Sound route (also known as the Virginia-North Carolina Cut).  We decide to return home using the Dismal Swamp route which also starts at the Elizabeth River in Virginia and ends just north of Elizabeth City, North Carolina in the Pasquotank River.

The Great Dismal Swamp stretches from southeastern Virginia to northeastern North Carolina.  Originally it covered about 3600 square miles, but has been partially drained to reclaim some of the valuable farmland and now covers only about 600 square miles.  Lake Drummond, 6 miles long and 3 miles wide, sits at the center of the great swamp (it was discovered in 1677 by William Drummond, NC's first governor) and provides most of the water for the canal.

Construction on the canal was started in 1793, delayed by the war of 1812 and finally completed in 1814.  There is a lock at each end, the northern at Deep Creek, VA and the other at South Mills, NC.  Each lock raises or lowers vessels about 8 feet.

We pull into the lock and tie up on the starboard side.  The port side filled up as well.

Finally, all were in, the lock gates closed behind us and the lock began to fill with water.

The canal itself is simply beautiful - it was hard to stop taking pictures of the view down the canal.

We could cruise at only 5-6 knots as the water was shallow (6-7 feet) and a boat our size could pick logs up off the bottom and pull them into the props.

We arrive at the South Mills lock and bridge and await the 3:30 bridge opening.  Both the bridge and lock must open in sync and are operated by the same tender.

Below South Mills, the ICW follows the wild, almost swampy northern headwaters of the Pasquotank River for about 18 miles to Elizabeth City.  As the sun starts to set, we pull behind Goat Island to anchor for the night.

Portsmouth, Virginia

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Another warm sunny day as we enter the Bay heading south.   The weather forecasts another front moving through tonight with winds gusting to 40 knots.  Although we have not seen much of the eastern shore of the Bay, we reluctantly decide to head to the relative safety of Portsmouth and start our long trek home.  The naval shipyard, founded in 1767, today services nuclear powered vessels, and this portion of the Elizabeth River remains as busy as ever  (you can see many pictures of the Navy vessels in our post of  October 10). 

We docked at the Ocean Marine Yacht Services Marina and walk the two blocks to the "Old Towne" district of the city for dinner.  After checking the menu of several likely restaurants, we choose the Cafe Europe and were very happy with the excellent meal.

Tangier Island

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

This morning we fueled up at Spring Cove Marina at Solomons Island and headed back out into the bay towards Tangier Island.  The sunny skies and light winds make for a beautiful day on the Bay.

Tangier Island is about 30 miles from Solomons and we arrive there about 2:00 in the afternoon.  Tangier, 3.5 miles at its longest and 1.5 miles at its widest, was first settled in 1686 by a Cornishman, John Crockett and his sons.  As British sympathizers during the Revolutionary War some residents, called "picaroons", were infamous as raiders and pirates throughout the Bay.  During the War of 1812, 12,000 British troops were quartered on Tangier and it is said that the island was stripped of its native trees in order to repair British naval vessels.

This is the approach to Tangier from the Bay (west) side:

The island is home to a fleet of workboats, soft shell crab pounds, shanties and work docks.

The single canal runs all the way across the island and to Tangier Sound on the east side.  A work boat eases by us in the narrow channel.

The docks are piled high with the crab traps (and I thought they were all in the bay directly iin our path).

The local hangout (no alcoholic beverages are sold on Tangier):

Some of the local workers stop and wave.  Many of the boats had canine companions.

Since most of the buildings appeared to be on the water, small skiffs darted to and fro.

Although we had originally planned to spend the night at Tangiers, it was still early in the afternoon and the weather forecast indicated 40 knot winds later in the week, we decided to make our way south and anchor out in the Piankatank River.

Here is a shot of the sunset over the Piankatank.

Solomons Island

Today is a warm, beautiful day.  Its amazing how much just seeing the sun will lift your spirits. 

On the Patuxent River side of town, they have built a boardwalk that runs about 1/3 mile along the river.

We have lunch at the restaurant on Solomon's Pier. Katy has discovered an appetizer/meal called the crab pretzel. They are great - covered with crab meat, cheese and heated until the cheese melts on top. I had the smoked rock fish dip and fried oysters.  For me it's hard to beat a good smoked fish and fresh fried oysters.

This shot is looking back up the Pataxent River towards the bridge:

There was a small chapel along the road:

The chapel reminded me of the Bynum church of my childhood (before it was bricked).  Like the Bynum church, it has served many generations of honest, hard-working folks.

The town has cleverly decorated many of the fire hydrants.  Here is one example:

There was another pretty sunset, but since it was so similar to last night's sunset I didn't take any pictures.  I was reminded of those friends and loved ones who I have enjoyed watching sunsets with but who are no longer with us.  I hope they are enjoying a great sunset wherever they are.

Dun Cove

Sunday, November 1, 2009

The grey skies continue and under scattered showers we pull away from the dock at St Michaels and head back into the Miles River.  At the mouth of the Miles, we head south towards Poplar Island and the shortcut through Poplar Narrows.  Through the Narrows, we reach Tilghman Island and decide to take yet another shortcut through Knapps Narrows at the north end of Tilghman Island.  This saves about 6-8 miles to round Blackwalnut Point and enter into the Choptank River.  On the eastern side of the Narrows, we enter the Choptank and turn north into Harris Creek where we anchor in a small but pretty cove: Dun Cove.


Monday, November 2, 2009

This morning, we woke up to some sun (what is that bright thing in the sky?) and I was able to take a few pictures of the cove.  The few houses appeared to be farm houses.  This farm is a the northern end of the cove.

This house was to our port side.

Today we decide to move further south and visit Solomons Island, one of the most popular cruising destinations on the Western Shore.  Once a hardscrabble fishing, crabbing, oystering and boatbuilding center, Solomons was discovered by the boating crowd in the late 1970's.  It is now a yachting center filled with marinas, boatyards and seafood restaurants.  We tie up at Zahnisers Yachting Center close to the center of town and settle down for the usuals.

Today's sunset shot:

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

Today is another grey day with overcast skies and scattered showers.   No visit to St Michaels is complete without a trip to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  Of the nine buildings on its campus, none is more recognizable than the Hooper Straits screwpile lighthouse.

After standing watch for 75 years, it was decommissioned, moved to this site, restored and furnished, it provides a look into the lightkeepers life.

A view of St Michaels from the top.  Looking across the harbor towards the marina and Island Passage:

Looking towards the village:

Looking out at the Miles river and the Freedom Schooner Amistad.

The Amistad sailed in today from New Haven, CT for a one month tour of the Chesapeake area.  Of course, I was drawn to it like a magnet.

Boy, does it capture the imagination? 
You can read more about it here: Freedom Schooner Amistad

The museum had exhibits covering local maritime heritage as waterfowl hunting, boatbuilding and oystering.  One of my favorites is the steamboat building.  Below is one of the huge steam engines that moved these giants across the Bay in earlier times.

We could easily spend at least a week and not see all the exhibits and artifacts available here.  However it was time for the usuals and then dinner at the Town Dock Restaurant at the marina.

St Michaels

The Miles River is noted as the passageway to one of the most popular cruising destinations on the Chesapeake Bay, St Michaels.  Although the town was officially chartered in 1804, early accounts of trading here date to 1631.  As St Michaels grew it became an important shipbuilding center especially noted for its "Baltimore Clippers", the fastest sailing vessels of their time.

Coming into the harbor, we passed a traditional Chesapeake Skipjack dredging for oysters.

At the entrance to the harbor is the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum featuring the relocated cottage-style Hooper Strait Lighthouse.

As we tied up at the docks of the St Michaels Marina I could hear shrieks coming from the dockmasters office and thought it was part of their halloween decorations.  It turns out the shrieks were from the boat captains going in to register and learning that, due to a festival this weekend, the dockage rate had been increased to $3.50 per foot.  Ouch.

Anyway, since it was only midafternoon we had some lunch at the Foxy Marina Bar (conveniently located directly behind our boat) and decided to walk downtown.  It is a small but pretty downtown.  They take their fall festival seriously.

Every light pole and store front was decorated.

This was the prettiest by far.

We purchased several shirts (had to boost the local economy) and walked back to the boat in time for the usuals.  Since the dockage was so expensive, we decided to eat in and Katy fixed us some delicious nachos for dinner.

The Wye River (Wye not?)

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Finally, the engine is ready and we pull away from the Annapolis City Dock under grey skies, but thankfully no rain.  On the way out of the harbor, we pass several of the 110 foot Navy Yard Patrol boats used for training the midshipmen on boat handling and seamanship.  They are almost constantly out in the harbor, turning, backing and moving around.

Further out in the Bay we pass the Melges world championship races being held this week.  There are 52 boats from all over the world participating.

Moving south down the Bay we need to pass around Bloody Point Bar Light to enter Eastern Bay.  The trees are beginning to reach full color in this area.

The light stands in 10 feet of water.  I was about 100 yards off the light in 165 feet of water.  Moving up Eastern Bay we pass another workboat.

Soon, we reach the Miles River and then its tributary, the Wye River.  The Wye River - divided into three branches - embraces the 2,250 acre Wye Island National Wildlife Refuge along 21 miles of shoreline.  Fields of grain roll down to the water's edge.  Watermen putter around in wooden boats, trotlining for crabs.  All is serene with an air of suspended time, as if nothing has changed in 200 years.

I took lots of photos of trees, finally Katy said "I think you have enough pictures of trees".

Here is the Anchor Diva doing her thing.

At times the sky was darkened by flocks of migrating geese.

We spent two nights anchored in this serenity with only the occasional fishing boat passing by.  Then, onward to St Michaels.